Bem Vindo
(Fado Pt 3)
At the end of the cultural event during my Portuguese lessons (detailed in Fado PT 2) I made it a point to meet the performers at the conclusion of the event. The Fadista, Margarida Arcanjo, whose real avocation is as a musical therapist and who will soon be on her way back to London, told me that she would be performing the following week at a place she thought I would be interested in knowing of: Associaçao de Fado Cato. In Alfama it goes without saying that it is to be found on a steep hill. I initially had trouble finding it. It appears as an otherwise anonymous looking building near the Cathedral of Lisbon. There were no signs telling me I had reached my destination and GPS was doing its usual poor job of negotiating the tight, steep and winding streets of Lisboa.
It was then that I spotted a small bulletin board and an open door with a handwritten “Bem Vindo” on it. Above two VERY steep stone steps were more interior steps leading up. I figured “why not?” Once inside, those step led me up a dark high ceilinged hallway that is lined with the signatures of performers on the both walls. At the top of the steps I met Frankie. He informed me I was at the right place but asked if I had a reservation. I confessed that I did not as I hadn’t known one was required. He turned and quietly explained to the proprietor, - a smallish elderly lady who then looked at me, sized me up, gave a warm smile, and then turned back to Frankie with a slight nod.
Margarida Arcanjo
Frankie then explained that admission was for music and dinner; that the cost was $55 and it included a 14-course set of tapas including beer and wine. “Could I substitute ginger ale?” I enquired. “Of COURSE!” Frankie replied, and all was good. Then I turned to see I inside what looked like a small chapel of quite some vintage that was all stone wall and a high vaulted ceiling. These walls were lined with old LPs and it felt like old Village or SoHo days. I was led to a spot along a handmade farm-type table as they all were and which they all were. Bread, olives, cheese, bean dishes and, of course, my ginger ale appeared. Margarida arrived and we said hello. Before long the lights were dimmed. Three musicians, André Silva on Guitarra Portuguesa; José Elmiro Nunes on Classical Guitar; and Fernando Jacques on Bass, went up to their seats on the stage which was but a simple platform. There were only two tiny lights to illuminate the performers.
As is usually the case, no amplification was provided, nor was it necessary as the acoustics were fantastic. As I ate a bit of each of the 14 dishes (all of which were delicious) and I soaked up the atmosphere that made an evening of Fado. Foi para estas coisas que vim a Lisboa.
Fadista Matilde Cid, a petite brunette sang with dynamic force and passion. Ana Maceda concluded the evening’s events with a buoyant, upbeat song that had everyone singing along - this harks back to the origins of Fado being very much a people’s music that identifies everyone as a part of Comunidade.
Of course, I want to highlight my friend, the wonderfully talented, Margarida Arcanjo. It was great to have heard her in the classroom at NOVA but even better was in the setting of a real Fado club. Words, of course, can never truly do justice to describing music or to a performer. Best is to hear for yourself. So, do yourself a favor and listen to her album “12”. Otherwise, the next time you find yourself in Lisboa make sure you get to Associação do Fado Casto.
